As many as 36 states across the U.S. reported widespread influenza activity in December, but epidemiologists say it is too soon to say how bad the flu season will be this year.
The early start of the outbreaks, which usually see a peak in February, is attributed to the low efficacy of the vaccine and possibly the cold temperatures gripping much of the country.
According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), the strain H3N2 is responsible for the majority of the deadliest cases reported this season.
"It's just one of those years where the CDC is seeing that this strain of flu is only somewhat covered by the vaccine that was given this year," said Jennifer Radtke, manager for infection prevention at the University of Tennessee Medical Center in Knoxville, as quoted by USA Today.
If there’s one nutritional supplement that should be in everybody’s natural health care arsenal for the cold winter months, it’s definitely colloidal silver – nature’s safest and most effective all-around immune-boosting and infection-fighting substance!
Here’s a number of eye-opening ways to use colloidal silver to get your family through the winter cold and flu season as unscathed by infection as possible.
As you know, the winter cold and flu season is on its way.
And along with it we’ll all experience to one degree or another the challenges of the change-of-season, including lowered immunity, fatigue, congestion, runny nose, earache, colds, flu, bronchitis, pneumonia and more.
And while colloidal silver is not a “cure all” for these conditions, much of the misery brought about by these conditions can nevertheless be alleviated through nutritional intervention with colloidal silver.
Colloidal Silver and Immunity
Take lowered immunity, for example. Everyone’s immunity seems to drop a bit in the winter. Some people more so than others.
But back in the 1970's, when Dr. Robert O. Becker, M.D., conducted his groundbreaking research at Syracuse Medical University into electrically generated silver ions, he discovered that people who are prone to frequent and severe colds, flu and infections tend to have the lowest levels of silver in their bodies.
What’s more, he found that people who have fewer and less severe colds, flu and infections tend to have the highest levels of silver in their bodies.
He also found that people with lower levels of silver in their bodies tended stay sick longer during an infection episode than people with higher levels of silver in their bodies.
In other words, even if you do get sick, having higher levels of silver in your body appears to help slash the duration and severity of the illness, in comparison to people with lower levels of silver in their bodies.
How does this work?
In one clinical study, titled Treatment of Orthopedic Infections with Electrically Generated Silver Ions, Dr. Becker demonstrated that silver ions give a healthy boost to human blood cell production, including white blood cells, which are an integral part of the human immune system.
And in the 1980's researchers Berger, Marino and Spadaro also confirmed that electrically generated silver ions boost human blood cell production.
As I stated in my book, The Ultimate Colloidal Silver Manual, these findings lead to the obvious conclusion that while a low white blood cell count can open the door to serious immune system risks, and a low red blood cell count can lead to oxygen starvation of the body’s tissues and organs, electrically generated silver ions may help successfully counter these risks by stimulating both white and red blood cell production.
Dr. Becker concluded that silver was a vital component of the immune system, and that whether or not you suffer from serious colds, flu or other infections frequently depends in large part upon how much silver you have in your body.
As he later stated:
“While analyzing hair samples and questioning the parties involved, I noticed the correlation between low silver levels and sickness.
People who showed low silver levels in their hair analysis were frequently sick. They seemed to have innumerable colds, flu, fevers, and various other sicknesses.
I believe that a silver deficiency may be the key to the improper function of the immune system.”
To have little or no toxicity, so silver supplementation seems to be a relatively safe and effective means of improving immunity." Again, colloidal silver is not a panacea for every infection that comes down the road.
After all, even the most healthy and fit of people tend to get sick from time to time. That’s just a given in this life. The flesh is weak. And there’s simply no replacement for healthy living. People who overeat, drink to excess, smoke, use drugs, are addicted to sugar (which destroys immunity), fail to exercise regularly, engage in risky activities or fail to reduce stress in their lives can’t expect to take a little bit of colloidal silver each day and remain well.
That’s just not how life works. There’s no substance or pill on the face of the earth that can keep you well if you otherwise abuse your body. But generally speaking, colloidal silver, when used wisely and with proper discretion, appears to directly help prevent immunity from crashing through the floor. And that’s all the more important in the cold winter months when colds and flu are so prevalent.
Stopping Colds and Flu Before They Get Started
Everyone agrees that colds and flu are the real bane of the winter season. But they don’t have to be.
While it’s hard to stop a cold or flu with any substance once it’s really taken hold in your body, you can very often stop it dead in its tracks with colloidal silver, if you catch it early enough.
If you’re unaware of the simple but very unusual trick for using colloidal silver to stop colds and flu before they get started, you might want to read my article from last winter, Colloidal Silver and Colds: A Safe, Simple and FAST Way to Stop Colds Before They Get Started!
What’s more, by acting at the very moment you first feel a cold or flu coming on, and treating the ears with colloidal silver, you can stop the infection from spreading to the sinuses, throat, lungs and chest.
Read the article linked above to see how this remarkable yet little-known technique works.
But even if you end up with a stubborn cold or flu because you didn’t act quickly enough, don’t despair.
While modern medical science hasn’t been able to come up with anything to get rid of a cold or flu once its gotten started, oftentimes nutritional intervention with colloidal silver usage can bring tremendous relief, and even help dramatically shorten the duration of a cold or flu bug.
First, if you have a nasty cold or flu that’s really got you down, you can put some colloidal silver into a cool mist vaporizer and let it run steadily in the room where you’re resting.
Colloidal Silver and Sinus Congestion
Sinus problems tend to get worse during the winter season for many people, particularly for those who suffer from sinus congestion.
But if you’ve got plenty of colloidal silver on hand, there are four easy ways to use it to beat a pesky sinus problem.
To learn how, check out my article 4 Effective Ways to Use Colloidal Silver to Deal with Pesky Sinus Problems (Including Sinus Cough), which reveals the four simple, inexpensive tools you’ll need in order to be able to successfully use colloidal silver against sinus problems.
And be sure to read Angela Kaelin’s eye-opening article Breathe Clearly Again, Using Colloidal Silver and a Neti Pot, which explains how to keep the sinuses healthy and infection-free by rinsing them out regularly with colloidal silver, using a neti pot.
Here’s what one brand new colloidal silver user wrote about using colloidal silver for a nasty sinus problem:
“I decided to try colloidal silver nasal spray after suffering from a sinus infection/cold for over two weeks.
Introduction to making your own silver at home
This article will describe a way to make colloidal silver at home. After the first batch of colloidal silver is made, the second and future batches should make one gallon of high quality 6 PPM to 8 PPM (Parts Per Million) colloidal silver in one and a half hours.
The fist batch will take about three hours since it will not have the benefit of “seeding” the gallon with previously “cooked” colloidal silver (this “seeding” is necessary to create a better electrical current in the distilled water). Once the first batch is made, future batches can be “seeded,” so it will take less time to make these batches.
All of the statistics in this article are based on a 400 mA (400 milliamp) power pack. Should someone use an 800 mA power pack, the necessary times will likely be shorter.
The power supply
There are several important aspects of this method, but the key is a 12 volt D.C. power supply. Here are its specifications:
Input (standard outlet in the U.S.):
120 volts AC
12 Volts DC
400 mA (milliAmps)
The output can actually be anywhere between 400 mA and 800 mA. To write this article, the 400 mA was used.
As a physical description, these are power packs that consist of a small black box, with the plug sticking directly out of the box. In other words, the black box plugs directly into the wall. It has two long wires sticking out the box. What is on the other end of the wires is not relevant because you will cut the ends off and strip the two wires (obviously while the power pack is unplugged).
Such power packs should be available at Radio Shack or any electronics store. They can be bought in bulk over the Internet at very inexpensive prices.
The silver wires
The silver wires should be 12 or 14 gauge (AWG) pure silver wire (14 gauge is highly preferred), between 99.95 percent and 99.999 percent pure silver. You should NOT use sterling silver, as it contains high levels of nickel, which is toxic. Make sure you buy pure silver wire.
There are several vendors of silver wire, but the silver wire you buy should be purchased by the foot, and you should buy several feet of it, since you will need 2 wires at least 12 inches long and you will use the wires up every several months, depending on how often you make the colloidal silver.
AT ALL TIMES, EXCEPT DURING THE COOKING OF THE COLLOIDAL SILVER, THE SILVER WIRES SHOULD BE PROTECTED FROM ANY LIGHT. THEY SHOULD BE WRAPPED AND STORED SO THEY ARE NEVER EXPOSED TO LIGHT. SILVER WILL CHEMICALLY REACT TO LIGHT.
The glass jars
You will need a one-gallon wide-mouth glass jar. It is critical this jar is made of pure glass, and not plastic. Plastic can create a static charge.
The easiest way to obtain such a jar, if you cannot find one, is to buy a one-gallon glass jar of pickles. At Wal-Mart, for example, the ones with the food stores in them, you can buy pickles in bulk in one-gallon glass jars. Wal-Mart also has a section with many glass jars in it. At grocery stores, the large jars will be in the bulk food section or in the pickle section.
You will also need a plastic funnel which has a very wide bottom and a large funnel with has a narrow bottom. The wide-bottom funnels can be found at Wal-Mart in the canning section, or at any grocery store that has a canning section. These funnels are not critical, but they come in very handy when pouring the water from jar to jar.
You should also have some amber jars for storing the finished colloidal silver. Even if you are able to buy the amber jars, in quart or half-gallon size, you still need to store the jars in a dark place.
Construction of the unit
You will need two alligator clips, which can be small, but yet large enough to hold a 12 or 14 gauge silver wire in place (these would be medium sized alligator clips at Radio Shack). Usually, these clips come in packs of 10 or so alligator clips.
With the power pack unit unplugged, during construction, cut-off whatever is at the end of the wire on the original power pack. Separate the two wires for several inches. Strip each wire and solder an alligator clip at the end of each wire. Use one red alligator clip and one black alligator clip for the two wires. It doesn't matter which color goes on which wire.
You may want to use one 100 ohm resistor. There are pros and cons associated with putting a 100 ohm resistor on one of the wires. The good news is that it will protect the power pack should to two silver wires touch each other by accident. The bad news is that putting a 100 ohm resistor on one of the wires will DOUBLE the length of time it takes to cook the colloidal silver.
Most people will not use a resistor. They will plug the power pack into a power strip, with the power strip turned off. They will then set up their silver wires in place. With the silver wires in place, they will turn the power strip power on. Likewise, when they have to remove the silver wires for cleaning, they will turn off the power pack before they touch the silver wires.
It is your choice.
If you do choose to use a resistor, it needs to be put on one of the wires (it doesn't matter which one) between the power supply and the alligator clip. It doesn't matter in what direction the resistor is pointed.
If you are going to use an LED to display a current (which really isn't necessary), put it on the other wire, meaning do not put it on the same wire the resistor in on.
You will definitely want to buy a small, battery-powered, hand-held laser, to see how dense the colloidal silver is becoming. These can also be purchased at Radio Shack or any office supply store. After the colloidal silver has been “cooking” for 20 or 30 minutes, if you shine the laser through the glass jar, and look at the laser beam perpendicular to the beam, you can see the progress of the colloidal silver. In other words, your line of sight is perpendicular to the laser beam, which is pointed through the water.
You will probably want a long WOODEN spoon to stir the colloidal silver from time to time. However, stirring the colloidal silver will actually slow down the cooking slightly.
You will need a WOODEN board to hold the wires in place on top of the glass jar. Certainly, do not use metal or it will short-circuit the silver wires. For example, use a small cutting board, with two 1/8″ holes drilled in the middle, 1 to 1 1/4 inches apart. Put one alligator clip on the end of each 12-inch silver wire to keep the wire from falling into the water. The other end of the silver wire is pushed through the hole in the wood and goes into the water. Thus, the wooden board in placed on top of the wide mouth jar and holds the silver wires in place.
The alligator clip is positioned so that the silver wire goes down to about 1 inch from the bottom of the jar.
The type of water to use
The ONLY type of water you should use is distilled water, which has been distilled by water distillation (not reverse osmosis). There are NO exceptions. All other types of water have too many impurities. While water impurities help speed up the cooking of the colloidal silver, the minerals in the water can bind to the silver particles and may eventually create a health condition known as argyria. Argyria is a condition where the skin turns grey or blue-grey because of taking high doses of impure colloidal silver over time. It is very difficult to reverse the condition, so it should be avoided.
DO NOT ADD SALT OR ANYTHING ELSE TO THE WATER – PERIOD. While salt will allow current to flow, it may create silver chloride, which can cause argyria over time.
Do NOT add ANYTHING to the water if it will create a silver compound, such as silver chloride.
Do NOT add preservatives, minerals, EDTA, proteins, gelatin, coloring, honey, etc.
You may use tap water ONLY if you are going to use the colloidal silver for EXTERNALpurposes. It is 10 times easier to use tap water than distilled water because it allows electrical currents to flow much, much better than distilled water. However, such colloidal silver should only be used for external purposes.
No matter what kind of water you use, if the water turns black, throw the water away, it has too many impurities in it.
Heating the water
The water will always be put into the one-gallon jar in two parts. For the first part, one-half quart (e.g. one-half liter) of distilled water is put into the one-gallon jar. This is either distilled water or distilled water from a batch of colloidal silver (this will be explained below). Either way, the water is at room temperature. The main reason for putting this water in first is to keep the glass jug from breaking when you pour the boiling water into it.
The second part of putting liquids into the jar is when you put pure distilled water, which was heated to a low boil, into the jar to finish filling the one-gallon jar up with water.
In other words, first put 1/2 quart of distilled water or colloidal silver water, at room temperature, then put in low boiling distilled water to fill the rest of the jar.
Always heat the distilled water in a STAINLESS STEEL POT WHICH IS UNCOATED.NEVER use an aluminum pot or a stainless steel pot which is copper coated or has any other coating. Heat until it comes to a low boil. Then pour the hot water into the jar that already has the room temperature water in it. This is when you use the wide-mouth funnel, though you may use it at other times as well.
Instructions for cooking the FIRST batch of colloidal silver
The instructions for cooking your first batch of colloidal silver is different than at other times. This is because your first batch does not have the luxury of having previously cooked colloidal silver put into the jar to help enhance the electrical current between the two silver wires.
Pure distilled water, which is the only kind of water you have for the first batch, conducts electricity very, very poorly. The good news is that as the colloidal silver is made, the current will start to flow better and better. Nevertheless, the first batch will take about three hours to make.
Plug the power supply into a power strip which has an on/off switch, so you can turn the power on and off with a switch. Turn the power off so you don't damage the power supply while you are getting set up.
Place the alligator clips onto the silver wires, one black on the top of one wire and one red alligator clip on top of the other wire. Do not let the silver wires touch, just in case you forgot and left the power on.
Put the silver wires through the wood and into the water and make sure the two wires are not touching each other or the side or bottom of the glass jar. Lower the silver wires to about 1 inch from the bottom of the glass jar.
Mark the time and turn the power on.
EVERY 4 or 5 minutes you need to:
- Turn off the power,
- Remove the silver wires from the jar,
- Wipe the two silver wires with a paper towel AND a non-metallic pot scrubbing pad (e.g. 1/4″ thick nylon Scotchbright pad),
- Put the silver wires back into the water, and
- Turn the power back on.
All of this is necessary to prevent a black crud from building up on the silver wires and floating to the bottom of the jar.
This cooking should last about three hours (which includes the frequent stops to clean the silver wires). The water should NOT turn milky or black, but it may turn light yellow, if looked at from above. (These numbers are based on a 400 mA power pack.) Light yellow is good, but not necessary.
The real test is the laser light. After the first half hour or so, you should start shining the laser through the water from time to time, looking at it with a line of sight which is perpendicular to the laser beam. You will start to see the beam, over time, get brighter and thicker. The thicker and brighter the beam, as it appears in the water, the higher the PPM of the colloidal silver.
By the time you are finished the beam should look solid red (or whatever color laser you have), with crisp edges at the top and bottom of the light. This is your sign the colloidal silver is ready. After three hours of cooking and cleaning, you should be able to see what this type of laser light looks like.
When you are done cooking the colloidal silver, put the water into the quart jars. Put aside one of the amber jars to “seed” the next batch of colloidal silver. You will use one-half of this quart jar to “seed” the next batch. Every subsequent batch needs to be “seeded” from one of the prior batches.
The second, third, etc. batches
There are only two differences between the second, third, etc. batches and the first.
The first difference is that the half-quart of distilled water, at room temperature, that was put into the jar will be replaced by a half-quart of colloidal silver previously cooked. This is important to help the electrical current flow and shorten the time it takes to make a batch.
The second difference is that the second, third, etc. batches should only take about an hour and a half.
It is important to rotate the silver wires. In other words, do not always put the same silver wire on the red alligator clip and the other one on the black alligator clip.
How you make sure you rotate them is up to you, but the silver wires will last a lot longer if they are rotated at least once per cooking, though they may be rotated during a cooking (after they are cleaned, for example).
Store the silver wires in a dark envelope or another dark place.
Store the colloidal silver in a cool place, but do NOT refrigerate the colloidal silver.
Store the amber jars in a dark place.
If you buy a pickle jar, it is impossible to remove the pickle smell from the plastic liner in the lid. You may want to just remove the lid and never use it again. Or you could put wax paper between the lid and jar.
NEVER REFRIGERATE THE COLLOIDAL SILVER.
How much to drink
This is up to the individual. If the colloidal silver is being used for prevention, 3 ounces of 6 to 8 PPM colloidal silver per day is all an adult would likely need. If there is a common cold, pandemic flu, or another type of flu, going around, then it would be best to double the daily dose for prevention.
If the colloidal silver is being used for treatment purposes, it might be best to take 8 to 12 ounces of colloidal silver a day, for as much as 2 or 3 weeks at a time.
If you are going to take the colloidal silver for several weeks at a time, make triple sure it is pure silver that is being used, and not silver chloride or some other silver compound.
Friendly bacteria in the digestive tract
Yes, colloidal silver may kill friendly bacteria in the digestive tract. Many take probiotics, lactobacillus acidophilus, lactobacillus bulgaricus, yogurt, etc. to replace friendly intestinal flora.
An alternate method if you cannot obtain a power pack
If you are not able to obtain the power pack, you can substitute three 9-volt radio batteries. Hook them in series (hook the three battery leads negative to positive, leaving a positive lead at one end and a negative lead at the other end open) so they output 27 volts. The three 9-volt batteries replace the power pack until you can get a power pack.
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